Sunday, January 27, 2008

Baja California, January 2008

Lesson #1: Don't follow the guidebooks when road tripping in Baja.

"No kayaking," the Bahia de los Angeles native told us. "The winds are too strong now." We looked away at a point far off in the horizon line. We had driven a long way to be here in this blue green bay. We walked along the beach, dejectedly, exhausted, dragging our toes in the sand.

We jumped in the car and three hours later found ourselves in Geurrero Negro, checked into our hotel, and went to book the morning run to the lagoon.

"No whales," the el Malarrimo guide told us. "At the end of February there will be about 1,500. Now you are lucky to see maybe 6 at most from very far away." We looked at each other and later, decided we were going to make the best of it. The next morning we arrived 25 minutes early for the boat.

The receptionist glanced up when he saw Asa, with a curious look, before explaining, "When you crossed into Guerrero Negro about 15 miles back, you actually entered Baja California Sur which is 1 hour ahead of the northern region. So you are actually half hour late and have missed the boat for the morning."

And so it went.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Alaska - The Last Frontier, August 2007





"There's a sow with twins and a sow with triplets out there," Ann, the Park bus driver pointed southward nonchalantly, as she deftly guided the rickety green camper bus around the high cliffs and hairpin bends of Denali road. The couple visiting from Chugach were thrilled and pointed their lenses outward, gasping at Polychrome overlook, the most beautiful bus stop in the world. (Just one hour earlier we had been drying all of our gear there following the 24 hour downpour near Tattler Creek.)

Asa and I gulped and grabbed our packs and descended into the valley from Elieson visitors center, at close to 7pm, our latest hike start time to date. Our feet sunk into the squishy greenery of the park and we even saw a family of caribou that first night. Luckily the summer days were long and we knew we had glaciers ahead.

Hiking in trail-less Denali is like your early twenties -- isolating, full of stuttered starts, half-baked ideas, some fear and trepidation, exhilaration and finally, at some unknown point, you settle into it, and actually marvel and delight in the sheer simplicity and joy of the journey. Wet socks and all.

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Thursday, June 21, 2007

World Refugee Day - June 20, 2007

Yesterday was World Refugee Day. The theme this year is New Home, New Life. I went to National Geographic to listen to Paula Dobriansky, Ishmael Beah, John Dau, and Tony Bennett. The event had an air of stiffness, formality. Aside from the refugee authors speaking, and a handful of others in the crowd, I could not tell if there were any other refugees or former refugees in the auditorium. Tony Bennett cried while accepting his Humanitarian Achievement Award and was teary-eyed while singing, "If I Ruled the World."

The theme was meant to be hopeful, and the event meant as a pep talk for service providers, but I could not help thinking of my thousands of brothers and sisters in Dadaab, waiting for a chance to return home, waiting for a chance to be resettled, waiting every year, for more than 15 years, for a new home, new life. I was thinking of all the refugees in the U.S., and even in the local area and wondering if they had even been invited to these World Refugee Day events.

Later I listened to the refugee panelists and felt sorry for the North Korean woman who had arrived less than 3 months ago and had somehow been enlisted for this World Refugee Day panel for our benefit. She smiled and laughed, the way Asian people do when they are uncomfortable, or feel awkward and want to make light of a difficult situation, when she realised there was no translator. Finally someone volunteered to translate and she was able to tell us piecemeal about her journey from North Korea to China to Thailand and eventually to the United States.

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Lawyers Have Heart 10K, Washington DC


Saturday, June 9, 2007. 8am-9am.
It was a warm summer run, about 77 degrees fahrenheit, 25 degree celsius. There were about 3-4,000 runners. The route started near Georgetown. Here's a pic of the rest of the team..

Asa 43:00

Hoa 60:00


Sunday, May 20, 2007

Capitol Hill Classic 10k

Asa ran a personal best -- 38:00!

Sunday, March 04, 2007

Patagonia in a New Light

This New York Times writer did the exact same trek we did in Patagonia's Torres del Paine National Park. He must have gone right before us because the rain was fierce for his trip, but in any case, the description of the route is quite similar and helpful for those planning to go -- it is one of our favorite places in the world.

________

March 4, 2007

Patagonia in a New Light

http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/03/04/travel/04patagonia.html?em&ex=1173589200&en=b21636b279e11af2&ei=5087%0A


Thursday, January 11, 2007

Patagonia -- Puerta Natales, Chile





From Punta Arenas a Puerto Natales

January in Patagonian Chile meant the sun rose at approximately 5:30am and set close to 11:30pm, with the temperature hovering around 55 degrees each day. Most of the locals dressed for the wind, cool, and intermittent rain, donning fleece jackets and other outer wear ensembles. Even the women casually wore performance gear and running suits.

We boarded the bus at 7am the next morning along with a handful of foreigners and a surprisingly greater number of Chilenos. We quietly queued, stored our luggage, and seated ourselves; no one asked us any questions much less glanced our way. During the entire three hour road trip, we enjoyed our anonymity, watching the countryside views pass like an old reel-to-reel through the window.

The countryside unfolded like the American west full of broad views and endless soft land. In these mesmerizing moments, I imagined giant hands reaching down from the heavens to massage the earth, creating undulations of green hills. We observed the famed wind ruffling the sheeps' wool, dancing with the yellow grass in a wave-like motion, whistling past our bus rooftop. When we disembarked at a rest stop to buy two empanadas, Asa and I leaned into the invisible force with our bodies - arms outstretched of course - marveling at its strength, laughing as it ballooned our jackets and whipped my hair high above my head.

Our first window views of the Torres were arresting as we neared the park entrance. The craggy peaks reached into the sky, claw-like, calling to mind the Wind River Range of Wyoming, or Cathedral peak in the Sierra Nevadas.

8 day trek on the Grand/Paine/"O" Circuit

We were blessed with unexpectedly gorgeous sunny weather for the entire 8 days of our trek.

The day we climbed Paso John Gardner and beheld Glacier Grey for the first time, we had what Carl Jung calls an oceanic experience. It's that feeling of being tiny and insignificant in the world. Never before have either of us seen such natural beauty in the world.

So comfortable in our solitude on the trail, we forgot altogether that we were in a foreign country.


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Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Patagonia -- Punta Arenas, Chile





The first thing we noticed flying into Punta Arenas was the wind. From his airplane window, Asa watched the earth far below full of black Angus cattle rock from side to side. We saw pristine mountain lakes and rivers flowing from glacial melt. The winds buffetted our plane as our pilot made a smooth landing onto the strait-side runway.

Groggily, we debarked the plane, meandered through the tax, immigration, customs, baggage lines before finding ourselves in front of the airport, loading our baggage into a van-taxi full of 9 other travelers from all over the world, including some locals.

On the way to our downtown hostal, we saw trees leaning eastward, bearing the brunt of the westerly winds.

Vientos fuertes, the driver said smiling, indicating the force of the wind pushing the van along the road.

We checked in with Jose, our host, ate a delicious seafood lunch at the local social club across the street from our hostal, purchased our remaining food, gear, and transport tickets for tomorrow's trek before falling asleep after the 24 hours in transit.

This is my and Asa´s first trip to Chile, and my maiden voyage to South America.

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Sunday, December 10, 2006

Khoury's Winter Challenge, East Somerville, MA

Today I ran the annual Khoury's Winter Challenge. The route starts at Khoury's Spa at 118 Broadway, goes directly up Winter Hill (tough!) and around town for 4.13 miles. I ran with a bum knee and came in about 38:00. Khoury's served a fatty breakfast afterwards - ham, eggs, bacon, bagels, coffee. It was a 40 degree, crisp, sunny morning. There were about 150 (?) runners.

Here is the link: www.srr.org/events/annual_events/winter_challenge/index.html

Also, I believe Somerville Road Runners run this route every Thursday night at about 7:30 regardless of rain, snow, sleet, or fog...

Sunday, October 29, 2006

Army Ten Miler - Virginia






Asa ran a personal best 1:08(!) and I was at the same pace as last spring 1:34. Enrico was there too and came in at 1:15. It was a perfect day for running - sunny and crisp with the temperature in the upper 50s. There were about 30,000 runners.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

The Trip of a Lifetime: Serengeti, Kilimanjaro, and Zanzibar











5 days in Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara, and Tarangire National Park
7 day climb up Mt. Kilimanjaro via Machame-Mweka route
7 days in Zanzibar: 5 nights at Nungwi beach and 2 nights in Stonetown




Last Days in Dadaab

During the last two weeks in Dadaab, Asa and I both wrapped up our work projects, and our UN colleagues planned for us a classic farewell party, replete with speeches, merriment, and gifts. (Thankfully, I was recovered sufficiently from a nasty bout of amoebic dysentary and was able to participate in everything.)

From the refugees to the compound cooks to the staff cleaners to the head of sub office, we have learned many life lessons and found dear friends. Leaving Dadaab though relieving was also a bit sad. We knew that Nairobi would not be as warm and generous of a place. We boarded our small UN charter plane and departed Dadaab on July 27.

Monday, June 26, 2006

The Long-Awaited Honeymoon

We have just begun planning our long awaited honeymoon. We will be traveling for three weeks at the conclusion of our work here in Kenya. So far our plan is to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, spend 4-5 days on safari in Tanzania's Serengeti, followed by a week touring the beaches and sites of Zanzibar! The trip of a lifetime in the making. We feel so fortunate and privileged to be free to travel and see the world. We miss you all.

Dadaab In the News

From Ifo Refugee Camp to Princeton University
http://www.unhcr.org/cgi-bin/texis/vtx/home/opendoc.htm?page=publ&tbl=PUBL&id=4444d3caa

Mobile phone helps one Somali refugee send long-distance SOS
http://www.unhcr.org/cgi-bin/texis/vtx/home/opendoc.htm?page=news&tbl=NEWS&id=449be9b24

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Nike Ball Launch

UNHCR and NIKE officially launched the ninemillion.org campaign today.


Spectators bulged from the sidelines. A certain mix of excitement and incredulity hung in the air. Women did not normally play sports here in Dagahaley camp. Smiles, cheers, and saucer-shaped eyes ran along the sandy rim of the volleyball court.

We served and bumped while the men kicked the football on the other side of the pitch. Afterwards NIKE and UN presented photos, awards, balls, and t-shirts to the refugee-all stars, as they basked in their victories over the agency staff.

The aim of the campaign is to raise awareness and funds for the nine million refugee youth in the world.

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

World Refugee Day



World Refugee Day’s theme this year is Hope.

In Hagadera, Ifo, and Dagahaley camps this morning, refugee students, community members, religious leaders, and elders organized themselves in the swirling sand to perform traditional dances, dramas depicting life in the camps, and Somali songs and speeches of freedom. Young men held up prepared signs for BBC News stating, We are Muslim. We are not Terrorists.

Beyond the performers, sign-holders, and barbed wire, hundreds of refugees scrambled to secure a viewing spot. Little barefoot boys in beat-up blue jeans hung in the trees, straining for a better angle. Veiled women and girls stood toe to heel like an inexperienced squadron of terracotta soldiers. Half- naked nappy-haired babies wailed. Elder men clad in kikoi carried canes and bristled tangerine beards. Women with henna'ed fingernails, hands, arms and feet swayed, squinty-eyed in the sun. Cleft lips, wrinkled chins, deformed hands, glass eyes. Waiting, breathing. Police officers forced the surging audience to sit down by shouting, Fariso!

Afterwards, I was bombarded by the usual pulsing crowd thrusting letters into my palm, pleading for a durable solution.

In the middle of the encircling mass, I asked, What do you hope for?

Peace, they answered without hesitation, and in the second breath, a Chance to Return Home.

Monday, June 19, 2006

Week Four in Dadaab


Hoa and I are entering our fourth week working here in Dadaab. The weather in this semi-arid region has been cool, hovering at around 85 – 90 degrees, which all the locals say is cool. We are 10 kilometers from the equator.

Dadaab is a land of Islamic goat-herders, camel traders, dry brush and acacia trees, dust storms in the distance. To get to Dadaab we flew on a chartered UN plane, but most locals travel overland, on a rickety bus jammed to the hilt, over dusty rutted road. The nearest town is Garissa, about three hours southwest. We are 90 kilometers from the Somali border.

Dadaab is a tiny town which exists primarily to service three refugee camps. Homes are made of wood sticks and plastic sheeting, or mud baked walls and with tins roofs. It is a poor region – the people, the cattle, the goats: all stick thin. The recent rains have not made a dent in the ongoing drought, the worst in the last two decades.

The three refugee camps are called Ifo, Dagahaley, and Hagadera. They house a total of 150,000 Somali refugees, many of whom have been living here since the outbreak of war in 1991. Imagine that --- fifteen years in a camp, subsisting on World Food Programme rations, waiting and biding time. There is not much to be hopeful for.

Most of the refugees have survived violent attacks and seen their family members killed before their eyes. Somali society is structured along clan lines, which historically provided protection for the nomadic people. With the ouster of Siad Barre, the longstanding dictator in 1991, the country imploded in a flurry of warfare – clan fighting clan for control over scarce commodities, things like water access and control over the few existing river basins.

We are living in the UN compound, which is a world unto itself. Imagine a beach resort without the beach, and only some of the trappings of a resort. You get the picture – a few little bungalows scattered here and there, small concrete housing units, the local mess hall which is a thatch and wood bungalow with a nice breeze, and a little open air bar affectionately dubbed Club Pumzika or Club Relax in Swahili. Every Friday and Saturday night, staff from the UNHCR, CARE, GTZ, and WFP gather there to socialize and party. Last Saturday night we had a magnificent camel roast to honor the promotion of a colleague and the departure of another one. We danced to lingala music until 3 a.m.

Hoa and I are both getting into the rhythm of our jobs. I am conducting interview after interview, spending most of my days in one of the field offices of the various camps. Families that are lucky enough to get scheduled for resettlement interviews arrive, and I am the first person they talk to. I spend an hour with them, taking down their flight story, assessing whether or not they have strong protection needs, and then trying to figure out if their case can proceed. There is a lot of corruption in the Somali caseload, and people with resettlement interviews sometimes try to add people onto their families (at a price measured in the thousands of dollars), or make other fraudulent claims that are difficult to describe in this blog. My role is to find the good cases, the ones that the US and Canada and Australia will take. I then promote those cases, which then move on to a second round interview process, and eventually on to the US Resettlement Program.

Hoa has been conducting individual casework, in particular responding to the needs of unaccompanied, separated, and orphaned children. She will spend the morning interviewing or visiting children at one of the field offices, hospitals, schools, or even their homes. Typically crowds or long lines form where she goes, indicating the enormous unmet need in each camp. She will then try to follow-up on their case in the afternoon, linking them to various resources, whether it be healthcare provided by GTZ or education materials by CARE. Last week, she was able to find temporary housing for an orphaned child who had been sleeping out in the sandy street of one of the camps. He had been beaten repeatedly by other children and even adults. It was a minor victory in a place where victories are few and life is harsh.

On Saturday, we had the fortune of taking part in a Cultural Orientation program, conducted by IOM. We saw Somalis about to be resettled to the US receiving lessons about life in America. We answered questions about resettlement drawing from our professional and personal backgrounds. It was inspiring, incredible, and a bit terrifying to think that these people who have been housed in a desert camp and known very little else will soon be placed somewhere in middle America.

As we continue our work, it seems that the situation in Somalia has taken a downturn. Fighting has erupted in Mogadishu and new refugees are beginning to arrive, several hundred per day. If things get worse, we may face an influx, and suddenly our jobs will all change. We will need to follow UNHCR’s contingency plan and really just try to get people food and shelter. We all hope the situation in Somalia stabilizes.

Saturday, June 03, 2006

First week in Dadaab

Hoa and I arrived in Nairobi about one week ago. We stayed for two days in Nairobi, where we went to the UNHCR Branch Office to complete paperwork and security briefing.

On Wednesday morning, we took the UNHCR charter flight to Dadaab, our duty station for the next ten weeks. The plane was a 12-seater, and we were joined by a USAID-World Food Programme joint mission, a young British guy working on development and technology issues, and other UNHCR staff.

The one hour flight took us over the desert-savannah of Eastern Kenya. We had amazing views of Mt. Kenya to the north and Mt. Kilimanjaro to the south.

I

I am working with the Resettlement Unit at UNHCR, where I am conducting first phase profiling of refugees for possible resettlement in the US, Canada, or Australia. Basically, this means I go out to the field office and then conduct about eight interviews each day. The interviews are akin to legal intake in the US context for an asylum seeker. During the interview I attempt to see whether or not the refugee matches the legal and project criteria for resettlement.

Hoa workes in community services unit. Her job is not completely defined yet, but it entails heading to the three camps comprising Dadaab, meeting the community to assess their needs, and then liaising with NGOs to respond to those needs. Hoa is the person in the straw hat and orange shirt in one of the above photos.

Saturday, May 27, 2006

Leaving






Asa and I visited my parents a few days ago. We stayed for two-and-a-half days, eating pho, listening to Tzu Chi news, touring my Dad's vegetable, fruit, and herb garden, cruising to the pagoda, chatting with old friends, and stocking supplies for our Kenya trip. On the way home, we saw old friends (and their new baby) in Maryland.

We're usually on a plane on my birthday. This year came dangerously close so we had an impromptu birthday party for me with some friends at the Banana Cafe's Piano Bar on 8th Street. We sang showtunes with the pianist and ate free fried Cuban appetizers. One friend gave me gifts for the trip like yo-yos for kids, notebooks, and small photo albums.

While packing tonight I realise I'm not quite ready to leave. Though this year has been one of the busiest, I've loved sharing my life with Asa. It has been a whirlwind few years: Returning from Southeast Asia; traveling the US by tent, cooler and car; moving to DC on another whim; building a household routine; hiking the John Muir Trail, adapting to student life & work routines again; planning wedding and summers and far in advance; seeing old friends, making new friends; studying together; running, biking, climbing; learning new recipes and dance routines (though not at the same time), and now preparing for Kenya and another big move afterwards. I can't think of after August now. We don't have time.

We take the shuttle to Dulles in 10 hours. In less than 24 hours we'll be in Nairobi.

Sunday, May 21, 2006

Capitol Hill Classic 10k





Today we ran in the Capitol Hill Classic, a 10k run to benefit a local public school. The race passed directly in front of our Eastern Market apartment at about the 5th kilometer. Asa ran the race with E, a friend of ours from PA. They finished in about 42 minutes. Hoa surpassed her goal, finishing around 56 minutes. The weather was amazing, and there were 3,000 runners.

After the race, we cooked brunch for Bert, an old college friend of Asa's, and fellow leader of the Habitat Bicycle Challenge in 1998. Bert was visiting from San Francisco and amazed us with his tales of exotic Albania.